Rodent Control | Rat Extermination | Rat Exterminator Orange County, Los Angeles


Wheeler’s Rodent Control  in ORANGE COUNTY, LOS ANGELES, RIVERSIDE COUNTIES. treatments follow the Center for Disease Control Guideline for Rodent Control and Rat Cleanup.

Rats and mice are the most troublesome and damaging rodents in Sounthern California. They contaminate food with their urine and droppings; they damage structures and property, and transmit parasites like fleas, lice and mites. They also transmit a number of diseases to humans. Rats biting through wires are known to cause over 45,000 building fires per year with another 95,000 plus fires that are probably caused by rodents chewing through home wiring. Calling a Wheeler’s  exterminator at first signcan prevent wire damage.

Rodents will come in your home or building in search of shelter, food, water. Without rodent control services, their numbers can increase 10, 20, 30 fold or more in a few months. So you will need to make hire a rodent extermination company like Wheeler’s  when you suspect rats have invaded your attic, subarea, walls voids, under decks , porches and other hard to reach places.

Because their instincts make them wary of new things in their area, rodent control, like trapping and baiting may be a time consuming task and may be a failure for those that don’t know how to control these animals. Calling in a professional rodent exterminator with the experience of getting rid of these pests as soon as possible can save you time, money and headaches.

The following will help educate you and what should be done if you have rat problems. It will take you through the types of rats we have in Orange County and Los Angeles, and  San Diego Counties, how to spot a potential rodent infestation, rodent proofing, habitat modification measures to take, baiting, animal trapping and general biology of these animals.


Rats infest your home or bussiness , unless your house is totaly  rodent proof, it is only a matter of time before you find evidence like droppings indoors. Experience has shown it is less timely and costly to remove rodents before their population get too high.

Check your yard and home. If you can answer yes to any of the following question you may have a brewing rodent infestation:

  • Do you have any rat or mice droppings on the concrete around your home or commercial property?
  • Do you hear scratching or running coming from the attic or walls at night?
  • Have you seen remnants of nests or droppings behind appliances, draws or in garage?
  • Does your dog or cat bring home dead rats or mice?
  • Do you a flea infestation but have no pets?
  • Is your dog or cat losing its hair in large spots?
  • Is there evidence of rats or some rodent half eaten  fruit on your trees?
  • Do you see rat digging  round plant roots or near garbage cans?
  • Do you see rats running along phone or power lines, fence tops or in trees after dark?
  • Are there black grease rub marks caused by the rats rubbing their body against walls pipes?
  • Have you removed dead rats or mice from your swimming pool or pond?
  • Do you see droppings in your attic?
  • Is the door seal on the garage door damaged or looked chewed on?
Sanitation is the foundation to reduce rodent population and must be continuous. If sanitation issues are not maintained, the rat population will quickly return. Good landscaping  around buildings will reduce available shelter and food sources for rats or mice, to some extent. Garbage and garden debris should be placed in garbage cans with tight-fitting lids. Dog or cat food should not be left outside. Always store pet food in rodent-proof bins preferably metal one, rats can chew though plastic .

Reducing dense vegetation will make your home less desirable. plants such as ivy, on fences or buildings are very conducive to a rodent infestations and should be either thinned or removed, tree limbs within 3 feet of the roof should be trimmed back.

Read more on Rodent Clean Up!


Sealing rats out is the most successful and long lasting form of control in buildings. Seal cracks and openings in building foundations, and any openings for water pipes, electric wires, sewer pipes, drain spouts, and vents. Use sheet metal, stainless steel mesh to cover possible entry points. No hole larger than 1/4 inch should be left unsealed to exclude both rats and house mice. Make sure door sweeps, windows, and screens fit tightly. Because rats and house mice are excellent climbers, openings above ground level must be plugged. Rat proofing against roof rats usually requires more time to find entry points than for Norway rats because of their climbing ability. Roof rats often enter buildings at the roof line area so be sure that all access points in the roof are sealed. If roof rats are travelling on overhead utility wires, Contact the utility company for information and assistance with measures that can be taken to prevent this.


  • Repair or replace damaged ventilation screen around the foundation and under eaves.
  • Provide a tight fitting cover for the crawl space.
  • Seal all openings around pipes, cables, and wires that enter through walls or the foundation.
  • Be sure all windows that can be opened are screened and that the screens are in good condition.
  • Cover all chimneys with a spark arrester.
  • Make sure internal screens on roof and attic air vents are in good repair.
  • Cover rooftop vents  in excess of 2 inches in diameter with screens over their tops.
  • Make sure all  doors are tight fitting and weatherproofed at the bottom.
  • Seal gaps beneath garage doors with a weather-stripping.
  • Install self-closing exits  to clothes dryer vents to the outside.
  • Keep side doors to the garage closed, especially at night.
  • Read more on Rat Exclusion!


To control rats & mice in a building is the safest and most effective method for rodent control in homes and businesses. Baiting inside homes to control the problem is not recommended because the dead rodents may end up in the wall, attic or other hard to reach place. While trapping is generally recommended for rodent control indoors, when the number of them around a building is high, you will need to use either baits to exterminate large number and gain adequate control, especially if there is a continuous re-infestation from surrounding areas. Enclosed bait stations, are place around the building. They are checked and refilled every two months to maintain a steady supply of bait for the rodents. Read More on Rodent Trapping!



This Rat is called sewer rat. It is a burrowing rat that is bigger than a roof rat. This rat digs burrows by building foundations, beneath bushes or woodpiles, and in the and around gardens and fields. This rat will line their nests with shredded paper, cloth material. When a Norway rat infest buildings, they usually remain in the basement or ground floor, but can also get into the attic if access is easy. Read more on Norway Rats


This rat is sometimes called a black rat. They are smaller than the Norway rat. A roof rat’s tails is longer than their bodies.

Roof rats  live  above ground in shrubs, trees, and vegetation such as ivy. Indoors, this rat is often found in your attics, walls, and cabinets while rats are much larger than mice, young rats can be mistaken with mice. While both rats and mice gnaw on wood, rats leave much larger bite marks than those of a mouse. Read More on Roof Rats

Call Wheeler’s Rodent Control Services ORANGE COUNTY, LOS ANGELES, RIVERSIDE COUNTIES. Today at 1-877-595-2847.

Roof Rat
Norway Rat


Rats and mice are mostly active at night because they have poor eyesight, but they make up for this with a keen sense of hearing, smelling, taste, and touch. They constantly explore and learn about their environment, memorizing the locations of pathways, obstacles, food and water, shelter, and other elements. Rats quickly detect and tend to avoid new objects placed into a familiar environment. Objects such as rat traps and rat baits often are avoided for several days or more following their initial placement.

Mice are just the opposite of rats and are very curious about new things in there environment. Both Norway and Roof rats may gain entry to structures by gnawing, climbing, jumping, or swimming through sewers and entering through the toilet or broken drains. While Norway rats are more powerful swimmers, roof rats are more agile and are better climbers.

Norway and Roof rats do not get along. The Norway is larger and more dominant. It will kill a roof rat in a fight. When the two occupy the same building, a Norway rat will dominate the lower levels while roof rat occupy the higher levels. Rats, especially young rats, can squeeze beneath a door with only a 1/2-inch gap. If the hole isn’t large enough to get through, the rat will gnaw to enlarge the gap Norway rats eat a wide variety of foods but mostly prefer cereal grains, meats, fish, nuts, and some fruits. When searching for food and water, Norway rats usually travel an area of about 100 to 150 feet in diameter. The Female Norway rat has four to six litters per year and may successfully wean 20 or more offspring annually.

Roof rats eat a wide variety of foods, but their food favorites are fruits, nuts, berries, slugs, and snails. Roof rats are especially fond of avocados and citrus and often eat fruit that is still on the tree. The roof rat’s favorite habitats are off the ground in attics, trees, overgrown shrubbery or vines and climb down to a food source. Roof rats travel up to 300 feet for food. They may live in the landscaping of one residence and feed at another. They can often be seen at night running along overhead utility lines or fence tops. They are very agile climbers, which enables them to quickly escape predators. The average number of litters a female roof rat has per year is three to five with from five to eight young in each litter.

Mice will feed on almost anything a rat would eat. They don’t need a water source because they can get enough from the foods they eat. Therefore their urine is very concentrated. Mice don’t travel very far from there nest.